weekender in Carmel & Monterey

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Arguably some of the most beautiful spots in California, the coastal towns of Monterey and Carmel-by-the-sea near Big Sur have long been upscale havens for the jet set.  It’s definitely high end, with its ocean view cottages, European ivy wrapped cafes and the famed Pebble Beach Golf Club.  Clint Eastwood is the former mayor of Carmel for pete’s sake!  With its million dollar (baby) homes overlooking the picturesque Central Californian coast, you can see why this area is the background for many novels (notably those of native son John Steinbeck), movies and television shows, most recently Big Little Lies.

It does seem like a place to where a person with secrets would escape (just picture yourself out on a balcony, wrapped in a cashmere shawl, wind whipping through your hair, gazing wistfully over the turbulent surf–channel your inner Nicole Kidman for this).  You can see it, can’t you?

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you CAN see it (photo credit: hbo)

I made my escape there for a weekend wedding, making a mini-road trip of it, Joad family style.  It is definitely doable in a weekend, but obviously the more time, the better to experience the serenity and calm of this seaside retreat.

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day trip to Heidelberg

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Heidelberg is one of Germany’s classic cities and is it’s original college town.  Home to Heidelberg University, Germany’s oldest institute of higher learning, this postcard of a city sits on the banks of the Neckar River.  About a quarter of its residents are students, so it’s a young, lively place, with several areas in the city to meet up and hang out with friends.

The city is 50 miles south of Frankfurt, so I traveled by train from the airport.  You don’t realize how large of a country Germany is until you travel through its countryside.  Vast would be an understatement.

I was in town for my German cousin’s wedding.  Having met his wife while in school, Heidelberg was the perfect location to celebrate their union.  The best thing about having European family is getting to travel in their countries.  For real.

The old town of Heidelberg lies on the south bank of the river.  The Kornmarkt plaza is the central meeting area, where there’s souvenir shops and farmer’s markets.  It is a part of the Main Street, a mile long pedestrian drag lined with boutiques and every type of ethnic cuisine possible.

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The castle on a hill (shout out Ed Sheeran) is the main event in this city.  The Heidelberg Castle ruins sit up above the river, it’s Renaissance style facade having been damaged by fires and lightning over the centuries.  It’s still quite formidable and impressive.

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If you see one thing in this city, you have to see these ruins.  If not for the historical relevance, but for the gorgeous view from its grounds.  Take the Bergbahnen funicular directly from Kornmarkt to the Schloss (Castle).

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This is just breathtaking.  Old world charm.  I couldn’t even imagine going to college in a place like this, with cobblestone roads and castles just down the street.

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The German countryside literally looks like the aerial view of Charlie Bucket’s hometown in the Gene Wilder classic, Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory.  With its brick buildings and the Old Bridge spanning the Necktar, it’s straight out of a painting.

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Heidelberg was a prominent location for the German Romantic movement in the 1800s.  And authors like Victor Hugo and Mark Twain wrote about these hallowed ruins as well.  I mean, with a view like this, how could you not be inspired?

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The 14th century constructed (started anyway) castle is made up of a courtyard with several surrounding buildings.  There’s Gothic and Renaissance styles of architecture, which have also persisted through the French pillaging it in 1600s.

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This Schloss also boasts the world’s largest wine barrel, the Heidelberg Tun.  You can climb up to a platform on top and dance on its dance floor.  I mean, wine not?

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The apothecary museum showcases pharmacology from the Renaissance period, and is incredibly well preserved.

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just say nein

When you’re in town for events, sometimes there’s not too much time to sightsee, but try to pick at least one destination to hit.  This one was worth it for sure, just remarkable.

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know before you go: SNA airport

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John Wayne Airport/Santa Ana (SNA) is the small airport that serves big Orange County, California.  It is my hometown airport, and I’ve probably flown out of here hundreds of times.  If you’ve ever flown out of SNA, you know that because of ordinances imposed by the neighboring beach cities, the planes have to cut their engine power down to 50% when they take off.  That’s the most annoying thing about the airport, but luckily there are other reasons that make this airport worth choosing.

Namely, it is very easy to navigate.  There’s only one concourse with three terminals A-C, ~20 gates, so it is very easy to travel from one end to the other.  Also, security is typically a breeze to get through.  It is incredibly easy to be dropped off and picked up, and the traffic flows well,  despite being located in Southern California.  For being a small airport, there are pretty good food options: Carl’s Jr (also known as Hardee’s, but originated from OC), Pei Wei, McDonald’s, Starbucks, Zov’s (local favorite), Subway and Pinkberry.  The hours are not that great though.  There are also a few sit down bars including an Anaheim Ducks sports bar.

The best thing about it, is that there is easy freeway access from the 405, 5, 55 freeways.  You can reach it from almost everywhere in Orange County in 15-20 minutes (including Disneyland) when traffic is light, and this saves you a lot of time.  Flights run a little higher than other airports, but you’re paying for convenience to avoid the portal of hell that is LAX.  Again, no airport lounges, but not too many long international layovers happening here.  This is the airport to take if you’re on your way to Disneyland.  If you can swing the higher expense, do it, it’s so worth it.

Remember:  ✈️ = unhappiest place on earth ✈️✈️✈️✈️✈️ = skip disneyland, stay here

Ease of navigating through terminals: ✈️✈️✈️✈️ (there’s just one, it’s easy)

Convenience of security lines: ✈️✈️✈️ (pretty fast)

Dining: ✈️✈️ (selection is good, but the hours are poor)

Bathrooms: ✈️✈️ (very spread out)

Charging stations/wifi: ✈️✈️✈️ (free wi-fi, have little cubby desks where you can charge)

Amenities: ✈️ (there’s usually some art or collections displayed)

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how to leave your heart in SF

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San Francisco is one of the world’s great cities.  Sitting up high on the tip of a Northern California peninsula, it’s natural beauty and cooler climate is as unique as the citizens that inhabit it.  For being such a small area in terms of acreage, SF packs so many things to see and do in every square mile.  There’s no way you can see everything, or afford everything, as it is one of the most expensive places in the world.  But, there’s also many free or affordable things to do as well, which we’re all about.

One visit, one dozen visits are not enough to experience the entirety of “the city,” but this what I like to do on a weekend visiting the city by the Bay.

save me, san francisco

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3 days in the wilderness: Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Jackson Hole, WY

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I am a fan of national parks.  I love them.  They are our national treasures, and I think they are the best thing about this country, by far.  American National Parks feature various ecosystems, geological formations, showcasing the topographic wonders of this country while always continuously championing conservation efforts.

Yellowstone was the first National Park in the United States and one might say it’s the granddaddy of them all.  It was signed into law by Ulysses S. Grant in 1872 and covers a vast land area over Montana, Idaho and Wyoming.  Yogi Bear also lives here.

Just kidding, I know he lives in Jellystone.

Let’s go get us a pic-a-nic basket…

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3 days in Pittsburgh

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Steel City is good old fashioned blue collar town, and it’s a good time.  The people are genuine, there’s innovation in food and industry and healthcare.  Sports culture can’t be beat there.  I’ve been to the ‘burgh a few times, for assorted work related trips and a wedding, and I’ve had memorable visits each time.

won’t you be my neighbor?

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day trip to Des Moines

When I lived in the Midwest, I used to drive all over the place.  It’s so easy to get from point A to point B in the US.  The freeways are well kept and well demarcated, and it’s really low stress driving along the open highway.

Des Moines is an underrated, sleeper city.  A capital city, it’s the most populated in the Hawkeye state.  What you might be surprised to find is that there’s a ton of arts and culture in this city.

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The gold domed State Capitol building is one of the more ornate state capitols.  Along Locust, Grand and Walnut streets are local boutiques focusing on home decor, clothing and gifts.  Des Moines is nice in that way, that there is a real focus on small business owners.  The most amazing shop, Eden, is located on 6th street and is a very carefully curated perfumery and cosmetic shop.  They have products by Tokyo Milk, Malin+Goetz, Voltivo.  There’s Diptyque and Tocca candles and pretty things and it’s adorable, perfect for gifting.  There’s a vespa in the showroom, it’s like a store version of Zooey Deschanel.

Next door is a Gong Fu Tea, which is a nice space to sit and contemplate the intricacies of life.  Another place to do that is down the road at the Pappajohn Sculpture Park.  This is probably one of the best sculpture parks around and it’s located smack dab in the middle of Des Moines.  It’s stuck with me for all these years, and for good reason.  It features works from heavy hitters such as Louise Bourgeois (whose Spiders also sit in front of the Kemper Art museum in Kansas City),

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Keith Haring’s Untitled and my personal favorite sculptor, Jaume Plensa’s Nomade.

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Here you can see Juno by Deborah Butterfield (driftwood horses), and Thinker on a Rock by Barry Flanagan.

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As an adult, I still don’t quite understand what venture capitalism is, but it seems that Mr. Pappajohn was very, very good at it, to be able to donate all these works to the Des Moines Art Center.

For an artsy, or at least eclectic choice for lunch, go straight to Zombie Burger where they serve artfully crafted burgers with a horror show theme.  I had a Raygun, which was a medium patty piled high with bacon, guac, fried jalapenos, monterey jack, and caramelized onions.  They have burgers with gouda, proscuitto, peanut butter, mac & cheese, croquettes, fried pickles, you name it.  If that won’t kill you, the scary decor will.  They also have neon-hued milkshakes with cereal, twinkies, cake mix, the works.

On your way out of town, you should be a total weirdo like me and seek out a covered Bridge in Madison County, as made famous by the book and movie.  The movie with Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep was filmed on location in this area.  They are not the easiest to get to, off the beaten track, but the one closest to my route was the Cedar covered bridge, and it was an adorable landmark to cap off a quick road trip.

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Happy weekending!

3 days in Seattle

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Seattle is one of my top five destinations.  The drizzly climate suits me, there’s an abundance of arts, music and food, and it’s just so damn cool.  The people here are hip, tech savvy and seemingly pave the way for the rest of us without caring if we know it or not.  It’s also so close to the effortlessly amazing Vancouver.  I love the Pacific Northwest.

That being said, it’s hard to do a city guide for a few days because there’s just so much to see.  I could probably do a half dozen guides representing each trip I’ve taken here in the past 5 years, and maybe one day I will.  I’m a true believer that you should do the touristy things on your first trip to get them out of the way so that you can start exploring the local vibes of a city, but in Seattle some of their tourist spots are the best and I like to visit them every time I’m in town.

SO much to do, you’ll probably be left sleepless in Seattle…

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2 days in Kruger National Park

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Going on safari in South Africa was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. Seeing these magnificent animals up close was thrilling and surreal and I still can’t believe I’ve had this opportunity.  It’s fun to look at pictures, but the reason I work hard is to get out and see this beautiful world we inhabit amongst so many other beautiful creatures.  It’s easy to get caught up in ourselves and in our everyday routines, but traveling opens your mind and reminds you that there’s a bigger picture out there.

South Africa is an incredibly beautiful country, with distinct terrains and landscapes, and to best experience it, make sure you see everything from Cape Town to Johannesburg (you’ve come this far).  And you certainly can’t miss Kruger National Park, home of the Big 5 animals: lion, water buffalo, leopard, rhinoceros and elephant. Formerly used as a term to denote the most dangerous animals to hunt, it is now thankfully used to delineate the most exciting animals to shoot with cameras only.

I bless the rains down in Africa…

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know before you go: Oakland (OAK)

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This is not my favorite airport.  I actually don’t care for either SFO or OAK, but at least SFO has a decent international terminal.  Oakland is an older airport that has limited amenities and dining options.  If you are stuck here as I was on a delay, it can be painful.

The airport itself is located about 10 miles from Downtown, and is very close to San Leandro.  There’s two terminals, T1 and T2, with 17 and 12 gates respectively.  T1 serves Alaska, Allegiant, American, British Airways, Delta, Hawaiian, JetBlue, Norwegian, Southwest, Spirit and Volaris.  T2 is exclusively Southwest.  The terminals are connected by a walkway and it’s a small airport, so it’s not too much of a hike from one end to another.

The thing it has going for it is that the BART station is very convenient to get to Oakland or SF.  I used to fly into Oakland to get to SF to avoid SFO.  And if there’s delays for SFO, usually you can hop on a flight to Oakland that may get you to the Bay earlier.  Of the NorCal airports, San Jose and Sacramento are better, but for convenience sake, Oakland just edges SFO out in my experience.

Remember: ✈️ = basket case to ✈️✈️✈️✈️✈️ = time of your life

Convenience to the city: ✈️✈️✈️ (BART and amtrak stations; freeway access can be real crowded at rush hour)

Ease of navigating through terminals: ✈️✈️✈️ (not too big of an airport)

Convenience of check in/security lines: ✈️✈️ (the check in area is small and the security lines can be long and slow)

Dining: ✈️✈️ (T1 there’s a chili’s to go and the Silver Dragon chinese isn’t bad.  They also have blue bottle coffee cartons, which is a plus for the bay area.  T2 has more options in typically airport fare: vino volo, gordon biersch, CPK and Fenton’s ice cream)

Bathrooms: ✈️  (I would literally give it negative planes if I could–the toilets are old and missing porcelain–every toilet is like this)

Charging stations/wifi: ✈️✈️ (free wifi available, could have more charging areas)

Amenities: ✈️ (very few shops including Raiders store and an Escape Lounge)